I was shocked. The young lady closed her eyes and lowered her head as I took her guinea pig to the operating room. This young lady was extremely upset as she did not accept my explanation that her guinea pig would not die on the operating table under gas anaesthesia. Her other 2-year-old guinea pig who was following her mum around every day had died despite treatment by Vet 1. The guinea pig was not eating and just died. Some causes of death are unknown unless autopsies are carried out and this was not done. So, she imagined the worst for this guinea pig.
She had heard so many stories of anaesthetic deaths and this 2.5-year-old guinea pig needed some gas anaesthesia. "The guinea pig always bite the BBQ wire fencing every morning to ask for her breakfast. Today, a loud banging noise frightened her and her teeth was broken when she tried to run off."
"Isoflurane gas anaesthesia is very safe for guinea pigs," I explained to her. She would not accept my explanation and wanted to be present. "No," I said. "You will stress yourself and everybody by being present at the operating room. I have to focus on the anaesthesia and you will be a great distraction."
So, the young lady had to wait in the waiting area. The guinea pig squealed when I touched her. My assistant took out the face mask as this was the standard procedure. He was on auto-pilot. "No face mask," I said. "The guinea pig has two loose front teeth and they are loose and bleeding. The usual small face mask will cause pain as it will touch the teeth. The best method is to use a bag and put the guinea pig inside this bag. Go and get a bag" Teaching my Myanamr vet assistant is part of my contribution to society. Once he is good, he will be in great demand and goes away. This can't be helped. In fact, competitors have tried to lure him away from my practice as he has 2 years of experience at Toa Payoh Vets. I accept that he needs to secure for himself a better future. No employee works long in a place and two years were great. What he needs is another 2 years and he can open his own vet practice in Myanmar, after learning the tricks of the trade from me and my assistant Dr Jason Teo. He could also learn by job-hopping. Maybe.
I made my assistant think. He went to look for a plastic bag. "Take this narrow vertical plastic corner and put the guinea pig inside," I showed him the gadget which was wide enough to fit the small guinea pig. It was slightly longer than the length of this little pig and was open at the top. I found this narrow transparent plastic container shop and knew it would be useful as an anasthetic chamber for the anaesthesia of guinea pigs and rabbits. Plastic bags are poor alternatives.
"What to do with the open top?" I asked my assistant. He got some towel tissue, made a central hole and taped the tissue at the sides, thereby covering the open top. It was OK. The hole would be where the endotracheal tube would be inserted to pipe in the isoflurane gas. This was what we do for hamster anaesthesia.
I was thinking too. Is there an alternative to this paper-top cover up which appeared flimsy? "Just get a thick white towel to cover the top," I said. At the side, put in the gas.
We did that. The guinea pig turned her head away from the incoming gas. But since the whole container was covered, she breathed the 5% isoflurane gas. Suddenly, the whole floor of this transparent container had a milky white discharge. She had peed. Within 5 mintues, she was dazed. I took her out, examined the front teeth. They were loose. I just extracted them and presented them to the happy lady.
Since I was free, I gave her a ride to Agnes' pet shop where she had bought her guinea pig and wanted to buy some hay or "emergency diet for guinea pigs". I don't sell pet food and so I drove her to Agnes and at the same time, see the new pet shop set up by Agnes.
Agnes had not told me about her new pet shop. Since she had no more rabbit scabies problems for the past 6 months, I did not have any referrals from her. I thought she had closed her half-shop in Ang Mo Kio as I just can't figure how she could survive.
This new pet shop set up one month ago was bright and pretty. Guinea pigs, hamsters and rabbits were sold here. In clean plastic containers. No puppies or kittens. I was glad that Agnes had prospered as I know that the pet shop business is a cut throat underpricing business in Singapore.
"The guinea pig's teeth will grow back in two weeks," Agnes said. "Use a file to file the lower teeth every day." This filing system was what I advised the guinea pig owner now that the two upper front teeth was broken at the gum level and the lower front teeth would grow and grow. I was told that the guinea pig's tooth grows 1 mm per day. In 14 days, it should be 1.4 cm if what I was told was correct.
"You don't think that guinea pigs are dumb creatures," Agnes implied to me when I told her that the dead guinea pig of the lady owner used to follow the mum around every day and was said to be more intelligent than the one with the loose front teeth. "I have a client who spends a lot of time with her guinea pig. When my client says 'bang' and points her forefinger and thumb, the guinea pig falls to the side and plays dead." Certainly, Agnes is an authority on guinea pig behaviour.
I was admiring the new pet shop. Suddenly, a mother and daughter came in with a scratching rabbit. The story continues
Monday, May 3, 2010
50. The rabbit 's neck became bald suddenly
I was at a pet shop when a mother and her pre-teen daughter came in with a 3-month-old rabbit with no more hairs on the neck between the shoulders.
"The rabbit keeps scratching the back of the neck non-stop," the mother had bought the rabbit recently. Agnes, the pet shop owner whom I knew for some years and had excellent working relationships introduced me as a vet. "Do you have a name card?" the mother asked. Before I could take one out, the guinea pig owner whom I treated her guinea pig for loose front teeth and had driven her to this pet shop where she bought the guinea pig, handed my namecard to the lady. I was surprised.
"It is best to bathe the rabbit," I advised Agnes. "But rabbits at 3 months of age should not be bathed or they will die."
"They will not die," I told Agnes who had applied a spot-on insecticide on the neck between the ears behind the neck and between the shoulders. "You need to wash off the spot-on insecticide as it is irritating the rabbit. Use very warm water."
"The owner can bathe the rabbit at home," Agnes was reluctant to do it. I asked her to do it as there was an opportunity to rectify what went wrong. The mother and daughter were first-time rabbit owners and would not be able to bathe it. "The rabbit may fracture its legs too, if the owner does it". I could take over the bathing but that would not be the right thing to do as Agnes could easily do it.
"Why don't you bathe the rabbit and if the rabbit still scratches the neck with its hind legs, I will treat it," I said to Agnes. Veterinary costs are much higher and I know most Singapore owners have this culture of "seeking the groomer first." Groomers are more affordable.
Later in the day, the mother and daughter came to see me. "Is there less scratching now after bathing?" I asked. "Yes," the mother said. "I paid $30 for the bath which took half an hour. But the rabbit is still using the hind legs to scratch the neck."
I gave an anti-inflammatory injection subcutaneous and tried to provide the least veterinary cost to the owner. "Let me know if the rabbit still scratches," I advised the stressed mother. No complaints for the last 2 days. I presumed all are back to normal.
P.S
Hypersensitivity to spot on insecticides may occur in animals. The rabbit had been bathed with an insecticide powder but since it was still shaking its head, Agnes applied a spot-on insecticide.
"The rabbit keeps scratching the back of the neck non-stop," the mother had bought the rabbit recently. Agnes, the pet shop owner whom I knew for some years and had excellent working relationships introduced me as a vet. "Do you have a name card?" the mother asked. Before I could take one out, the guinea pig owner whom I treated her guinea pig for loose front teeth and had driven her to this pet shop where she bought the guinea pig, handed my namecard to the lady. I was surprised.
"It is best to bathe the rabbit," I advised Agnes. "But rabbits at 3 months of age should not be bathed or they will die."
"They will not die," I told Agnes who had applied a spot-on insecticide on the neck between the ears behind the neck and between the shoulders. "You need to wash off the spot-on insecticide as it is irritating the rabbit. Use very warm water."
"The owner can bathe the rabbit at home," Agnes was reluctant to do it. I asked her to do it as there was an opportunity to rectify what went wrong. The mother and daughter were first-time rabbit owners and would not be able to bathe it. "The rabbit may fracture its legs too, if the owner does it". I could take over the bathing but that would not be the right thing to do as Agnes could easily do it.
"Why don't you bathe the rabbit and if the rabbit still scratches the neck with its hind legs, I will treat it," I said to Agnes. Veterinary costs are much higher and I know most Singapore owners have this culture of "seeking the groomer first." Groomers are more affordable.
Later in the day, the mother and daughter came to see me. "Is there less scratching now after bathing?" I asked. "Yes," the mother said. "I paid $30 for the bath which took half an hour. But the rabbit is still using the hind legs to scratch the neck."
I gave an anti-inflammatory injection subcutaneous and tried to provide the least veterinary cost to the owner. "Let me know if the rabbit still scratches," I advised the stressed mother. No complaints for the last 2 days. I presumed all are back to normal.
P.S
Hypersensitivity to spot on insecticides may occur in animals. The rabbit had been bathed with an insecticide powder but since it was still shaking its head, Agnes applied a spot-on insecticide.
49. Mind Your Own Business
Chinese Wedding dinners are very boring obligations unless one sits with a talkative group. A vet whom I still remember as a primary school boy in his mother's practice was hosting a wedding dinner and his mum invited me. I had asked to sit with a group of friends so as to enjoy my dinner. The bridegroom's brother was very helpful and found me a table with 5 people though it was meant for 10. A Myanmar vet technician who told me he was sitting in this table suddenly disappeared but there was Mr Goh, a veterinary drug salesman I had known for over 30 years. Mr Goh, another vet and her friend were good conversationalists and we had some laughter when my old friend, a retired vet called Dr X, came to sit beside me. I had not seen him for several months and it was good to catch up with him. Soon a Filipino vet technician joined us. For some unknown reason, Mr Goh, asked Dr X to give a lift back home in front of everybody. Dr X said in his usual quiet voice, "OK". While Dr X went back to his table where his wife was seated, the veterinary technician who had left as his wife was at another table, came to our table again. Mr Goh asked the waiter for a glass of brandy for him. A second glass was drunk.
For some unknown reason, Mr Goh bragged about his doing a good service of getting a free ride for the technician. The technician announced calmly, "I will be taking a taxi with my wife home after the wedding dinner. We have to go somewhere."
Mr Goh said, "Where do you want to go with your wife after the wedding dinner? It is already 11 pm?" This is where Mr Goh should mind his own business.
The technician raised his voice, "You think that Filipinos can't afford taxi fares and must take lifts home! In the Philippines, I can afford a Mercedes."
Dr X who agreed to give him a lift home drove a Mercedes. I minded my own business and kept mum. Mr Goh could not keep his mouth shut, "Dr X is going home in the same area as you live." This was a fact.
The technician's eyes looked bigger and he stood up and shouted as loudly as he could, "You will not survive if you live in the Philippines." The wedding dinner crowd was not the hard-drinking noisy type.
The bride had changed from her white wedding dress to red and was going round the tables to take pictures. As the crowd was the conservative type, there was not much cheering and toasting the wedding couple. So the technician's shouting could be heard distinctly.
Suddenly the technician's wife came over and spoke to him. Her forehead wrinkled and she pulled him away from the table. This was an unforgettable incident and reminded me that it is best to "mind your own business."
I can't figure out why the drug salesman would impose on Dr X to ask him to give a lift home to the veterinary technician, causing the latter to feel that he was penniless and could not afford taxi fares.
Dr X was a retiree and was most hospitable and happy when he came to chat with me and those at the table. Resentment surfaced in unexpected situations and one should mind one's own business as there are better and less stressful things to do in life than doing "match-making" car rides.
Sunday, May 2, 2010
48. Puppy playpen + 2 pee pans bought. What to do?
SUNDAY'S CASE
Pembroke puppy brought in for examination as the pet shop seller gives a 24-hour guarantee.
1. If the puppy is medicated against diarrhoea or kennel cough, the disease of parvovirus and kennel cough cannot be seen sometimes. The owner must be aware of this fact. Parvoviral diseases take several days to show the symptoms. A parvo-viral faecal test may be done.
2. Pembroke Corgi with long tail. This is normal, I said to the owner.
3. House-training. The pet shop sold the owner a playpen which can enclose a pee pan and a bottle of puppy training liquid. He also sold another pee pan. "What advices did the Seller give you?" I asked. "Why is there an extra pee pan?".
It is a pity that Puppy Sellers in Singapore don't co-operate to provide detailed information on how to use the tools sold to house-train the puppy. Puppy house-training books written by Caucasians are many but they seldom have the detailed relevant explanations as for this case.
This will be an opportunity for vets to create goodwill by providing the information but this is seldom done too as it takes around half an hour to explain how to do it and a long queue is waiting on a busy Sunday. Use drawings.
4. I had taken a photo of my illustrations and explanation. Will upload at www.toapayohvets.com later. Maybe a book will be better. But is there a demand for such a book?
Pembroke puppy brought in for examination as the pet shop seller gives a 24-hour guarantee.
1. If the puppy is medicated against diarrhoea or kennel cough, the disease of parvovirus and kennel cough cannot be seen sometimes. The owner must be aware of this fact. Parvoviral diseases take several days to show the symptoms. A parvo-viral faecal test may be done.
2. Pembroke Corgi with long tail. This is normal, I said to the owner.
3. House-training. The pet shop sold the owner a playpen which can enclose a pee pan and a bottle of puppy training liquid. He also sold another pee pan. "What advices did the Seller give you?" I asked. "Why is there an extra pee pan?".
It is a pity that Puppy Sellers in Singapore don't co-operate to provide detailed information on how to use the tools sold to house-train the puppy. Puppy house-training books written by Caucasians are many but they seldom have the detailed relevant explanations as for this case.
This will be an opportunity for vets to create goodwill by providing the information but this is seldom done too as it takes around half an hour to explain how to do it and a long queue is waiting on a busy Sunday. Use drawings.
4. I had taken a photo of my illustrations and explanation. Will upload at www.toapayohvets.com later. Maybe a book will be better. But is there a demand for such a book?
Scratches mouh and saliva-stained front legs
SUNDAY'S INTERESTING CASE STUDIES
Mar 16, 2010
A young couple brought their dog came in for consultation of skin lumps on the back spinal area.
Why did this 12-year-old male Shih Tzu have purplish stains on the upper part of his front legs? Bad breath, Thin. Treatment with antibiotics and anti-fungal wash. Advised dental 7-10 days later as this would be ideal time as dog had antibiotics and his mouth would be free of bacteria.
May 2, 2010 (Sunday)
No saliva stains. I was surprised to see pure white hairs on front legs now. So, the dog had not been rubbing his painful mouth with his front legs. Dental scaling and extraction.
ANAESTHESIA
All 12-year-old dogs are high anaesthetic risks. Blood tests advised but not accepted. This must be recorded. Isoflurane gas anaesthesia is the safest method.
TEETH
15 loose teeth extracted. Dog goes home. Should be living longer now.
CONCLUSION
It is best to get your dog dental scaling from 2 years of age and every year or two, rather than live with bad breath and saliva-stained front paws. After the dental, he permitted his mouth to be opened as there was not much pain now.
Mar 16, 2010
A young couple brought their dog came in for consultation of skin lumps on the back spinal area.
Why did this 12-year-old male Shih Tzu have purplish stains on the upper part of his front legs? Bad breath, Thin. Treatment with antibiotics and anti-fungal wash. Advised dental 7-10 days later as this would be ideal time as dog had antibiotics and his mouth would be free of bacteria.
May 2, 2010 (Sunday)
No saliva stains. I was surprised to see pure white hairs on front legs now. So, the dog had not been rubbing his painful mouth with his front legs. Dental scaling and extraction.
ANAESTHESIA
All 12-year-old dogs are high anaesthetic risks. Blood tests advised but not accepted. This must be recorded. Isoflurane gas anaesthesia is the safest method.
TEETH
15 loose teeth extracted. Dog goes home. Should be living longer now.
CONCLUSION
It is best to get your dog dental scaling from 2 years of age and every year or two, rather than live with bad breath and saliva-stained front paws. After the dental, he permitted his mouth to be opened as there was not much pain now.
Thursday, April 29, 2010
2 female hamster cases - lip ulcer and pyometra
CASE 1
Young lady. Hamster 1 year. Not eating. Right fore paw not putting down. Big swelling up to right shoulder was obvious. What's the problem?
1. Instant diagnosis: Right pouch impaction and/or abscess?
2. Right fore paw swollen 2 x compared to the left. Occasionally he does put weight on the right fore paw.
3. Not eating. Why?
Isoflurane gas anaesthesia. Hamster's pouch everted and food empty. Big ulcer. Took digital
CASE 2
Young lady starting her wedding gown rental business. Female, 1.5 years old, dwarf hamster had been passing blood for one month. "After antibiotics and Biolapis electrolytes were finished, the hamster started passing a pool of smelly red blood. Now, her back legs are hair-less. She eats and passes a lot of well-formed stools. When she lies down, a pool of red blood flows out. Her urine is normal and clear. What's the problem?
1. Instant diagnosis: Wet Tail? Rectal growth? Anal growth? "But stools passed out are normal and well-formed," the lady said.
2. I saw the patches of reddish brown blood on the tissue paper. Now the blood is much more smelly.
Is this a case of pyometra?
Today, v.vigorous scratching after spraying with disinfectant spray all over body. Already scratching for 2 weeks. After scratching, bites paws fo 2 weeks. Bathed by pet shop warm water. 50% less scratching. Can walk and run. Pupils not reactive to bright light.
Don't clean the rabbit with wet cloth with anti-bacterial Dettol.
Young lady. Hamster 1 year. Not eating. Right fore paw not putting down. Big swelling up to right shoulder was obvious. What's the problem?
1. Instant diagnosis: Right pouch impaction and/or abscess?
2. Right fore paw swollen 2 x compared to the left. Occasionally he does put weight on the right fore paw.
3. Not eating. Why?
Isoflurane gas anaesthesia. Hamster's pouch everted and food empty. Big ulcer. Took digital
CASE 2
Young lady starting her wedding gown rental business. Female, 1.5 years old, dwarf hamster had been passing blood for one month. "After antibiotics and Biolapis electrolytes were finished, the hamster started passing a pool of smelly red blood. Now, her back legs are hair-less. She eats and passes a lot of well-formed stools. When she lies down, a pool of red blood flows out. Her urine is normal and clear. What's the problem?
1. Instant diagnosis: Wet Tail? Rectal growth? Anal growth? "But stools passed out are normal and well-formed," the lady said.
2. I saw the patches of reddish brown blood on the tissue paper. Now the blood is much more smelly.
Is this a case of pyometra?
Today, v.vigorous scratching after spraying with disinfectant spray all over body. Already scratching for 2 weeks. After scratching, bites paws fo 2 weeks. Bathed by pet shop warm water. 50% less scratching. Can walk and run. Pupils not reactive to bright light.
Don't clean the rabbit with wet cloth with anti-bacterial Dettol.
Can't house-train. Barks when confined, so let out
Case of the female 4-month-old poodle, 3rd vaccination and microchip
The niece who is a career HR girl had no time as she works long hours. Her mum dislikes the puppy. Tension in the relationship. Puppy is always crated in. Finally, gave the puppy to aunty who brought her in for 3rd vaccination. "My niece bought the puppy on impulse," she said. "Now I have to look after it."
"Why don't you sell the puppy back to the pet shop?" I said. "At a loss."
"My 10-year-old daughter will not part with the puppy" the mother said. "Her ankle always get nipped by the puppy. She will scream. The puppy will nip more."
BARKING NUISANCE. The puppy does not bark when not confined. So I asked "Where does the puppy sleep at night?" The mother said, "We put him in the kitchen and close the door." I asked, "Will the puppy barks non-stop?" The mother said, "Yes, but after some hours, she stops barking." So, you can see that there is a solution to barking control.
HOUSE-BREAKING
1. Common problem. Puppy barks loudly when confined in a cage. So, she is let out during the first week. Pees and poops everywhere. Headache of cleaning up for the mum.
2. Toilet area. Sometimes on newspapers. She likes to pee on the rug.
SOLUTION
1. Confine to kitchen. Baby gate. For 2-4 weeks.
2. Put newspapers in 2 places. Change to new ones frequently.
3. Focus on newspaper training. Newspaper with urine smell in early stages.
The niece who is a career HR girl had no time as she works long hours. Her mum dislikes the puppy. Tension in the relationship. Puppy is always crated in. Finally, gave the puppy to aunty who brought her in for 3rd vaccination. "My niece bought the puppy on impulse," she said. "Now I have to look after it."
"Why don't you sell the puppy back to the pet shop?" I said. "At a loss."
"My 10-year-old daughter will not part with the puppy" the mother said. "Her ankle always get nipped by the puppy. She will scream. The puppy will nip more."
BARKING NUISANCE. The puppy does not bark when not confined. So I asked "Where does the puppy sleep at night?" The mother said, "We put him in the kitchen and close the door." I asked, "Will the puppy barks non-stop?" The mother said, "Yes, but after some hours, she stops barking." So, you can see that there is a solution to barking control.
HOUSE-BREAKING
1. Common problem. Puppy barks loudly when confined in a cage. So, she is let out during the first week. Pees and poops everywhere. Headache of cleaning up for the mum.
2. Toilet area. Sometimes on newspapers. She likes to pee on the rug.
SOLUTION
1. Confine to kitchen. Baby gate. For 2-4 weeks.
2. Put newspapers in 2 places. Change to new ones frequently.
3. Focus on newspaper training. Newspaper with urine smell in early stages.
43. Should the vet cure the hamster wart with oral medication? ELECTRO EXCISION OR SURGICAL EXCISION
"Can you remember you did house-calls to a house in Ewart Park 30 years ago?" the mother brought in a 2-year-old hamster with a wart and 2 yellow upper eyelid abscesses asked me.
"I do remember Ewart Park," I said. "It is one of those secluded exclusive quiet leafy housing residential areas. You were a baby then" I could not recognise this mother of two teenaged daughters. "I wasn't a baby," she laughed.
I was joking with her. She was a teenaged girl when I did the house-calls. At that time, I was 29 years old.
But I remembered a Pekinese with maggot wound in the nose area and happy children running up and down a terraced patio, if my long-term memory served me right. I had never been to Ewart Park since. This was such a long time ago and now this teenaged child is a mother of teenagers.
Her hamster looked thin and was a bit dehydrated when the hamster skin remained upright when pulled. But this hamster was very well cared for and was still active. He wanted to exercise but just could not reach the wheel. He would just fall off. It was not a laughing matter and the mother lowered the wheel for him.
How to excise the wart completely? Freezing or just use scissors to cut it off at the stalk? I wanted to use electrosurgery to cut and kill off any surrounding wart viruses and stop bleeding.
But I remembered a Pekinese with maggot wound in the nose area and happy children running up and down a terraced patio, if my long-term memory served me right. I had never been to Ewart Park since. This was such a long time ago and now this teenaged child is a mother of teenagers.
Her hamster looked thin and was a bit dehydrated when the hamster skin remained upright when pulled. But this hamster was very well cared for and was still active. He wanted to exercise but just could not reach the wheel. He would just fall off. It was not a laughing matter and the mother lowered the wheel for him.
How to excise the wart completely? Freezing or just use scissors to cut it off at the stalk? I wanted to use electrosurgery to cut and kill off any surrounding wart viruses and stop bleeding. Cutting off usually leads to bleeding, so electro-surgery which coagulates and cuts is useful in this case.
But would this old hamster be able to stand to electro-surgery and not die of a heart attack during the procedure? I asked my intern Tanya to stand by with the camera and take a picture as I electro-incise the wart. "It will be less than a second," I said. "Be ready snap the picture as I cut."
Well, Tanya managed a second too late and got a picture of the wart after cutting. Better than nothing.
As for the upper eyelid, I would not use electro-surgery as the area is too near to the eye. I used small scissors to snip off the abscess. There was a gap in the right upper eyelid of 1 mm x 2 mm but the wound healed well the next day.
"Why do you board the hamster at the pet shop?" I asked the mother who was glad to meet up with me after 30 years. "Did he get the wart after boarding?" The domestic worker was frightened of the hamster and so he was boarded when she was overseas. She did not know when the wart appeared but judging from the long finger nails of the left fore paw, it could be a few weeks.
The second day, she visited with a new packet of Japanese-made hamster food and paper litter. This hamster was on a flooring of big solid pellets which I consider sharp and rough for this paws. But these big pellets were absorbent and not so smelly.
Warts do occur in older hamsters. It is best to get them excised when they are small. However, not all vets in any country perform hamster surgery. Some prescribe oral medicine. Warts don't disappear with oral medication. Warts irritate the hamster as he tries to bite them off. They get infected and become painful. Search for a vet who will operate and excise them.
Hamster warts grow bigger daily. They never disappear and the hamster may try to bite them off if they are present in the paws. The hamster is irritated and stressed by their growth and infection. As to why some vets merely prescribe oral medication when presented with hamster warts, I just cannot understand the rationale. Each vet has his or her approach to treatment in a case but all vets should be careful about the legal consequences of straying from the standard treatment of warts.
More pictures are at "Hamsters", www.toapayohvets.com
-------------------------
Hamster warts grow bigger daily. They never disappear and the hamster may try to bite them off if they are present in the paws. The hamster is irritated and stressed by their growth and infection. As to why some vets merely prescribe oral medication when presented with hamster warts, I just cannot understand the rationale. Each vet has his or her approach to treatment in a case but all vets should be careful about the legal consequences of straying from the standard treatment of warts.
More pictures are at "Hamsters", www.toapayohvets.com-------------------------
INSTAGRAM POSTING ON 20 OCT 2021. This was a case done 11 years ago!
Warts do occur in older hamsters. Warts don't disappear if your vet prescribes oral medication. Warts are licked. They get infected, become painful and the hamster loses weight. Not all vets perform hamster surgery. You need to look for a hamster vet.
Dr Sing Kong Yuen’s 2010 case study is at:
https://2010vets.blogspot.com/2010/04/should-vet-treat-hamster-warts-with.html
42. Follow-up on No. 41 --- crate training a puppy
DRAFT REPORT
EMAIL REPLY FROM DR SING APRIL 29, 2010
SAW ONE PICTURE.
FORTUNATELY, YOU EMAIL PICTURES AS I WAS WONDERING WHY YOUR PUPPY PEES IN THE CENTRE ALL THE TIME. FROM YOUR PICTURE, YOU HAVE RUBBER MATS WITH HOLES ON THE LEFT 1/3 AND RIGHT 1/3 WITH THE MIDDLE BEING THE ORIGINAL WIRE FLOORING OF THE GRATE.
IN THE LEFT 1/3, THE BACK HALF OF THE LEFT IS THE POOPING AREA, THE FRONT PART IS THE FEEDING AND WATER AREA.
THE BACK HALF OF THE RIGHT IS THE SLEEPING CLEAN AREA.
THE RIGHT 1/3 IS THE CLEAN AREA AND SO HE DOES NOT PEE AND POOP THERE. HOWEVER THE LEFT 1/3 IS ALSO THE DRINKING BOTTLE AND FEEDING AREA. SO THE POOR PUPPY HAS TO WALK DIAGONALLY PAST THE SOILED CENTRE (WHERE HE PEES) TO GOTO THE WATER BOTTLE ON THE FRONT RIGHT.
I WILL RECOMMEND THAT THE FRONT OF THE RIGHT 1/3 AREA BE THE AREA WHERE THE PUPPY EATS AND DRINKS. THAT MEANS THE WATER BOTTLE SHOULD BE ON THE RIGHT, NOT ON THE LEFT.
IF YOU CAN, SEND ME 2 PICTURES IN .JPG FOR MY RECORDING PURPOSES.
SEE MORE REPLIES BELOW.
On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 10:42 PM, XXX@yahoo.com.sg> wrote:
Hi Dr Sing,
as promised, I've attached 2 pictures of Cookie's crate & pee pan. By the way my mum is a housewife but she goes out like 2 - 3 days a week and hence Cookie is not under full supervision on these days. I'll have to follow the way a working adult trains his/her puppy.
Hope it helps. I've also added further comments in the email below.
From: Kong Yuen Sing <99pups@gmail.com>
To: XXX@yahoo.com.sg>
Sent: Wednesday, 28 April 2010 10:05:11
Subject: Re: Toilet Training Chihuahua x Pom
Thank you for email. It is best that you email 2-4 pictures of Cookie's crate + pee pan with the positioning of water bottles, bowls and sleeping area as every puppy is housed differently.
The following is my reply to you:
On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 5:36 PM, Sharon Soh wrote:
Hi Dr Sing,
I’ve been reading up your toilet training blog and find it very useful when toilet training my puppy. However, I still have a few queries. I’m a first timer raising up a puppy and hence has been quite stress up. I’ve accompanied my puppy for the first 3 days (almost keeping him within my sight) and observed the following:
My puppy is a mix breed of Chihuahua and Pomeranian, 3 months named Cookie. He was with us since 24 Apr 10.
The pet shop owner came with a crate with wire flooring and a pee pan below. Initially I try to carry Cookie to the bathroom after nap/food with newspapers laid on the floor but was unsuccessful. Cookie usually poos twice a day, 1 in the early morning and another one in weird timing. I realized that he only pees in the middle of the crate; I supposed it’s due to the urine smell. He pooed everywhere though.
COOKIE IS USED TO THIS WIRE FLOOR SYSTEM. HE WAS IN THE PET SHOP WITH SUCH A SYSTEM. AS TO POOPING EVERYWHERE, ARE YOU SURE? Where is his sleeping area? Is the crate too small?
XXX: So far we've not really let him outta his crate for too long, only wanted him to get some exercise and will put him back aft 10 - 15 mins. We try to bring him outta his crate at least 3 times a day. He drinks a lot too esp aft play outside the crate. As for the crate size, please advise if it's too small or too big based on the attached pictures.
CRATE SIZE OK
Qn 1: Do you think Cookie will poo in the middle like where he used to pee if I spray those anti-pee/anti-poo spray (given by my friend) on those area that I don’t want him to do pee/poo? The spray has a strong smell and I'm contemplating to use it.
YOU CAN TRY. THE BEST IS TO ENSURE THAT HIS SLEEPING AND EATING AREAS ARE FURTHEST AWAY FROM THE POOPING AREA AND
THE MIDDLE OF THE CRATE.
XXX: I tried spraying on the red rubber mat and Cookie refused to eat after that. I guess its due to the pungent smell. He continues his eating after I wiped the mat.
SPRAY IS NOT VERY USEFUL IN MANY CASES
Qn 2: It seems like he’s trained to pee/poo in the crate. Is that a good idea? It’s ideal for us since we are working. However, if we bring Cookie out eg. to a friend’s place, will he pee/poo everywhere since there’s no crate?
YOU MAY NEED TO BRING YOUR CRATE ALONG. COOKIE WILL PEE AND POOP ANYWHERE IF LET ALONE FOR THE FIRST 2-4 WEEKS as he is not fully house broken.
XXX: how do we determine if a puppy is fully house broken?
WHEN THE PUPPY KNOWS WHERE TO PEE AND POOP IN AREA REQUIRED BY THE OWNER. E.G. PAPER TRAINED PUPPY WILL ELIMINATE ON PAPERS ONLY AT ALL TIMES, UNLESS THERE IS NO PAPER. OR HOP INTO CRATE WHEN HE NEEDS TO ELIMINATE AND NOWHERE ELSE. OR TO A SPOT IN THE GARDEN.
Qn3: Cookie seems to be stepping hard on his own poo when all of us are asleep. He’s also seems to be shifting them around. I can see portions of it at different areas of the crate. We also caught him eating his own poo once. How do we prevent such action from happening especially when we are all asleep?
EATING STOOLS IS A COMMON COMPLAINT. YOU MAY NEED TO REMOVE STOOLS PROMPTLY. IF NOT PRACTICAL, YOU MAY NEED OTHER METHODS I had mentioned in my blog. These are not guaranteed to succeed.
XXX: Will try a few of the methods and update you on the improvement.
Qn4: When I let him out to play in the living room, will it be better to leave the crate door open and let him run to the crate to pee/poo? YES. HOWEVER, MONITOR HIM CLOSELY SO THAT HE DOES NOT PEE/POOP OUTSIDE THE CRATE. KEEP ALL DOORS OF BEDROOMS CLOSED.
XXX: So far he hasn't poo outside but has an accidental pee just outside the toilet.
Or will it be better to lay newspapers on a pee pan (given by my friend) with Cookie’s urine smell at a corner so he can pee/poo when he’s out playing and need not rush back to the crate? DECIDE ON ONE METHOD - CRATE WITH WIRE FLOORING OR NEWSPAPERS FOR THE NEXT 2-4 WEEKS IF YOU WANT EARLY SUCCESS. In the Crate method, your dog will then use the Crate as the toilet area and outside as his den in 2-4 weeks, in most cases. So, you just clean the crate. Later, you can buy the GRATE + PEE PAN which is actually the same as the lower half of your present crate, without the enclosed vertical walls.
XXX: "In the Crate method, your dog will then use the Crate as the toilet area and outside as his den in 2-4 weeks, in most cases. So, you just clean the crate." When you said "outside as his den in 2 - 4 weeks", are you saying that Cookie will want to sleep outside of his crate in 2 - 4 weeks?
DEPENDS ON THE TYPE OF TOILET TRAINING PROVIDED BY THE OWNER IN THE FIRST 2-4 WEEKS.
MOST PUPPIES WILL SLEEP OUTSIDE THE CRATE AS THERE IS FREEDOM. JUST GOES INTO THE CRATE'S WIRE FLOORING TO PEE AND POOP. OTHER SMALL BREEDS WILL SLEEP INSIDE THE CRATE AND ELIMINATE OUTSIDE (ON NEWSPAPERS).
As for Grate & Pee Pan, can I just used the current pee tray and removed the vertical walls since it's similar to the one you recommended?
OK
I've let him out of the crate twice on 26 Apr and surprisingly, he climbs back to his crate when he's thirsty after running a few rounds. I see that as a good sign of recognising his own den?
FOCUS ON CRATE TRAINING FOR THE NEXT 2-4 WEEKS, SINCE YOU ARE WORKING AND HAVE NO TIME. IF YOU START PAPER-TRAINING, YOU WILL NEED TO FOCUS ON PAPER TRAINING. The puppy gets confused as to what you want.
XXX: Will heed your advice and focus on crate training for the next 2 - 4 weeks.
YOUR PICTURE SOLVES THE MYSTERY OF WHY YOUR PUPPY PEES EXACTLY IN THE CENTRE. THE PUPPY 'FEELS' THE FLOORING AND IS USED TO THE WIRED FLOORING OF THE PET SHOP. SO HE PEES IN THE CENTRE SINCE YOUR LEFT 1/3 AND RIGHT 1/3 HAS RUBBER MATS WITH A DIFFERENT FEELING.
IN THEORY, YOU SHOULD HAVE ONLY RUBBER MATS ON THE RIGHT 1/3, THE WATER BOTTLE ON THE RIGHT 1/3 FRONT PART AND FEEDING NEAR THE WATER BOTTLE.
SO THE LEFT 2/3 IS THE WIRE FLOORING INTENDED TO BE A TOILET AREA. WIRE FLOOR GRATING. THIS WILL NOT CONFUSE THE PUPPY AS IT DOES "FEEL" THE FLOORING AS WELL AS DETECT THE URINE SMELL IN THE NEWSPAPERS BELOW FOR PEEING AND POOPING.
I HOPE YOU KNOW WHAT I AM WRITING ABOUT.
Sorry for the long post and thank you for the time to read my email, I would be very much delighted to receive your reply
Regards,
EMAIL REPLY FROM DR SING APRIL 29, 2010
SAW ONE PICTURE.
FORTUNATELY, YOU EMAIL PICTURES AS I WAS WONDERING WHY YOUR PUPPY PEES IN THE CENTRE ALL THE TIME. FROM YOUR PICTURE, YOU HAVE RUBBER MATS WITH HOLES ON THE LEFT 1/3 AND RIGHT 1/3 WITH THE MIDDLE BEING THE ORIGINAL WIRE FLOORING OF THE GRATE.
IN THE LEFT 1/3, THE BACK HALF OF THE LEFT IS THE POOPING AREA, THE FRONT PART IS THE FEEDING AND WATER AREA.
THE BACK HALF OF THE RIGHT IS THE SLEEPING CLEAN AREA.
THE RIGHT 1/3 IS THE CLEAN AREA AND SO HE DOES NOT PEE AND POOP THERE. HOWEVER THE LEFT 1/3 IS ALSO THE DRINKING BOTTLE AND FEEDING AREA. SO THE POOR PUPPY HAS TO WALK DIAGONALLY PAST THE SOILED CENTRE (WHERE HE PEES) TO GOTO THE WATER BOTTLE ON THE FRONT RIGHT.
I WILL RECOMMEND THAT THE FRONT OF THE RIGHT 1/3 AREA BE THE AREA WHERE THE PUPPY EATS AND DRINKS. THAT MEANS THE WATER BOTTLE SHOULD BE ON THE RIGHT, NOT ON THE LEFT.
IF YOU CAN, SEND ME 2 PICTURES IN .JPG FOR MY RECORDING PURPOSES.
SEE MORE REPLIES BELOW.
On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 10:42 PM, XXX@yahoo.com.sg> wrote:
Hi Dr Sing,
as promised, I've attached 2 pictures of Cookie's crate & pee pan. By the way my mum is a housewife but she goes out like 2 - 3 days a week and hence Cookie is not under full supervision on these days. I'll have to follow the way a working adult trains his/her puppy.
Hope it helps. I've also added further comments in the email below.
From: Kong Yuen Sing <99pups@gmail.com>
To: XXX@yahoo.com.sg>
Sent: Wednesday, 28 April 2010 10:05:11
Subject: Re: Toilet Training Chihuahua x Pom
Thank you for email. It is best that you email 2-4 pictures of Cookie's crate + pee pan with the positioning of water bottles, bowls and sleeping area as every puppy is housed differently.
The following is my reply to you:
On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 5:36 PM, Sharon Soh
Hi Dr Sing,
I’ve been reading up your toilet training blog and find it very useful when toilet training my puppy. However, I still have a few queries. I’m a first timer raising up a puppy and hence has been quite stress up. I’ve accompanied my puppy for the first 3 days (almost keeping him within my sight) and observed the following:
My puppy is a mix breed of Chihuahua and Pomeranian, 3 months named Cookie. He was with us since 24 Apr 10.
The pet shop owner came with a crate with wire flooring and a pee pan below. Initially I try to carry Cookie to the bathroom after nap/food with newspapers laid on the floor but was unsuccessful. Cookie usually poos twice a day, 1 in the early morning and another one in weird timing. I realized that he only pees in the middle of the crate; I supposed it’s due to the urine smell. He pooed everywhere though.
COOKIE IS USED TO THIS WIRE FLOOR SYSTEM. HE WAS IN THE PET SHOP WITH SUCH A SYSTEM. AS TO POOPING EVERYWHERE, ARE YOU SURE? Where is his sleeping area? Is the crate too small?
XXX: So far we've not really let him outta his crate for too long, only wanted him to get some exercise and will put him back aft 10 - 15 mins. We try to bring him outta his crate at least 3 times a day. He drinks a lot too esp aft play outside the crate. As for the crate size, please advise if it's too small or too big based on the attached pictures.
CRATE SIZE OK
Qn 1: Do you think Cookie will poo in the middle like where he used to pee if I spray those anti-pee/anti-poo spray (given by my friend) on those area that I don’t want him to do pee/poo? The spray has a strong smell and I'm contemplating to use it.
YOU CAN TRY. THE BEST IS TO ENSURE THAT HIS SLEEPING AND EATING AREAS ARE FURTHEST AWAY FROM THE POOPING AREA AND
THE MIDDLE OF THE CRATE.
XXX: I tried spraying on the red rubber mat and Cookie refused to eat after that. I guess its due to the pungent smell. He continues his eating after I wiped the mat.
SPRAY IS NOT VERY USEFUL IN MANY CASES
Qn 2: It seems like he’s trained to pee/poo in the crate. Is that a good idea? It’s ideal for us since we are working. However, if we bring Cookie out eg. to a friend’s place, will he pee/poo everywhere since there’s no crate?
YOU MAY NEED TO BRING YOUR CRATE ALONG. COOKIE WILL PEE AND POOP ANYWHERE IF LET ALONE FOR THE FIRST 2-4 WEEKS as he is not fully house broken.
XXX: how do we determine if a puppy is fully house broken?
WHEN THE PUPPY KNOWS WHERE TO PEE AND POOP IN AREA REQUIRED BY THE OWNER. E.G. PAPER TRAINED PUPPY WILL ELIMINATE ON PAPERS ONLY AT ALL TIMES, UNLESS THERE IS NO PAPER. OR HOP INTO CRATE WHEN HE NEEDS TO ELIMINATE AND NOWHERE ELSE. OR TO A SPOT IN THE GARDEN.
Qn3: Cookie seems to be stepping hard on his own poo when all of us are asleep. He’s also seems to be shifting them around. I can see portions of it at different areas of the crate. We also caught him eating his own poo once. How do we prevent such action from happening especially when we are all asleep?
EATING STOOLS IS A COMMON COMPLAINT. YOU MAY NEED TO REMOVE STOOLS PROMPTLY. IF NOT PRACTICAL, YOU MAY NEED OTHER METHODS I had mentioned in my blog. These are not guaranteed to succeed.
XXX: Will try a few of the methods and update you on the improvement.
Qn4: When I let him out to play in the living room, will it be better to leave the crate door open and let him run to the crate to pee/poo? YES. HOWEVER, MONITOR HIM CLOSELY SO THAT HE DOES NOT PEE/POOP OUTSIDE THE CRATE. KEEP ALL DOORS OF BEDROOMS CLOSED.
XXX: So far he hasn't poo outside but has an accidental pee just outside the toilet.
Or will it be better to lay newspapers on a pee pan (given by my friend) with Cookie’s urine smell at a corner so he can pee/poo when he’s out playing and need not rush back to the crate? DECIDE ON ONE METHOD - CRATE WITH WIRE FLOORING OR NEWSPAPERS FOR THE NEXT 2-4 WEEKS IF YOU WANT EARLY SUCCESS. In the Crate method, your dog will then use the Crate as the toilet area and outside as his den in 2-4 weeks, in most cases. So, you just clean the crate. Later, you can buy the GRATE + PEE PAN which is actually the same as the lower half of your present crate, without the enclosed vertical walls.
XXX: "In the Crate method, your dog will then use the Crate as the toilet area and outside as his den in 2-4 weeks, in most cases. So, you just clean the crate." When you said "outside as his den in 2 - 4 weeks", are you saying that Cookie will want to sleep outside of his crate in 2 - 4 weeks?
DEPENDS ON THE TYPE OF TOILET TRAINING PROVIDED BY THE OWNER IN THE FIRST 2-4 WEEKS.
MOST PUPPIES WILL SLEEP OUTSIDE THE CRATE AS THERE IS FREEDOM. JUST GOES INTO THE CRATE'S WIRE FLOORING TO PEE AND POOP. OTHER SMALL BREEDS WILL SLEEP INSIDE THE CRATE AND ELIMINATE OUTSIDE (ON NEWSPAPERS).
As for Grate & Pee Pan, can I just used the current pee tray and removed the vertical walls since it's similar to the one you recommended?
OK
I've let him out of the crate twice on 26 Apr and surprisingly, he climbs back to his crate when he's thirsty after running a few rounds. I see that as a good sign of recognising his own den?
FOCUS ON CRATE TRAINING FOR THE NEXT 2-4 WEEKS, SINCE YOU ARE WORKING AND HAVE NO TIME. IF YOU START PAPER-TRAINING, YOU WILL NEED TO FOCUS ON PAPER TRAINING. The puppy gets confused as to what you want.
XXX: Will heed your advice and focus on crate training for the next 2 - 4 weeks.
YOUR PICTURE SOLVES THE MYSTERY OF WHY YOUR PUPPY PEES EXACTLY IN THE CENTRE. THE PUPPY 'FEELS' THE FLOORING AND IS USED TO THE WIRED FLOORING OF THE PET SHOP. SO HE PEES IN THE CENTRE SINCE YOUR LEFT 1/3 AND RIGHT 1/3 HAS RUBBER MATS WITH A DIFFERENT FEELING.
IN THEORY, YOU SHOULD HAVE ONLY RUBBER MATS ON THE RIGHT 1/3, THE WATER BOTTLE ON THE RIGHT 1/3 FRONT PART AND FEEDING NEAR THE WATER BOTTLE.
SO THE LEFT 2/3 IS THE WIRE FLOORING INTENDED TO BE A TOILET AREA. WIRE FLOOR GRATING. THIS WILL NOT CONFUSE THE PUPPY AS IT DOES "FEEL" THE FLOORING AS WELL AS DETECT THE URINE SMELL IN THE NEWSPAPERS BELOW FOR PEEING AND POOPING.
I HOPE YOU KNOW WHAT I AM WRITING ABOUT.
Sorry for the long post and thank you for the time to read my email, I would be very much delighted to receive your reply
Regards,
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
41. Focus on one house-breaking method for first 2-4 weeks to succeed
DRAFT
E-MAIL REPLY FROM DR SING DATED APR 28, 2010
Thank you for email. It is best that you email 2-4 pictures of Cookie's crate + pee pan with the positioning of water bottles, bowls and sleeping area as every puppy is housed differently.
The following is my reply to you:
On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 5:36 PM, ...yahoo.com.sg> wrote:
Hi Dr Sing,
I’ve been reading up your toilet training blog and find it very useful when toilet training my puppy. However, I still have a few queries. I’m a first timer raising up a puppy and hence has been quite stress up. I’ve accompanied my puppy for the first 3 days (almost keeping him within my sight) and observed the following:
My puppy is a mix breed of Chihuahua and Pomeranian, 3 months named XXX. He was with us since 24 Apr 10.
The pet shop owner came with a crate with wire flooring and a pee pan below. Initially I try to carry XXX to the bathroom after nap/food with newspapers laid on the floor but was unsuccessful. Cookie usually poos twice a day, 1 in the early morning and another one in weird timing. I realized that he only pees in the middle of the crate; I supposed it’s due to the urine smell. He pooed everywhere though.
XXX IS USED TO THIS WIRE FLOOR SYSTEM. HE WAS IN THE PET SHOP WITH SUCH A SYSTEM. AS TO POOPING EVERYWHERE, ARE YOU SURE? Where is his sleeping area? Is the crate too small?
Qn 1: Do you think XXX will poo in the middle like where he used to pee if I spray those anti-pee/anti-poo spray (given by my friend) on those area that I don’t want him to do pee/poo? The spray has a strong smell and I'm contemplating to use it.
YOU CAN TRY. THE BEST IS TO ENSURE THAT HIS SLEEPING AND EATING AREAS ARE FURTHEST AWAY FROM THE POOPING AREA AND THE MIDDLE OF THE CRATE.
Qn 2: It seems like he’s trained to pee/poo in the crate. Is that a good idea? It’s ideal for us since we are working. However, if we bring XXX out eg. to a friend’s place, will he pee/poo everywhere since there’s no crate?
YOU MAY NEED TO BRING YOUR CRATE ALONG. XXX WILL PEE AND POOP ANYWHERE IF LET ALONE FOR THE FIRST 2-4 WEEKS as he is not fully house broken.
Qn3: XXX seems to be stepping hard on his own poo when all of us are asleep. He’s also seems to be shifting them around. I can see portions of it at different areas of the crate. We also caught him eating his own poo once. How do we prevent such action from happening especially when we are all asleep?
EATING STOOLS IS A COMMON COMPLAINT. YOU MAY NEED TO REMOVE STOOLS PROMPTLY. IF NOT PRACTICAL, YOU MAY NEED OTHER METHODS I had mentioned in my blog. These are not guaranteed to succeed.
Qn4: When I let him out to play in the living room, will it be better to leave the crate door open and let him run to the crate to pee/poo? YES. HOWEVER, MONITOR HIM CLOSELY SO THAT HE DOES NOT PEE/POOP OUTSIDE THE CRATE. KEEP ALL DOORS OF BEDROOMS CLOSED.
Or will it be better to lay newspapers on a pee pan (given by my friend) with Cookie’s urine smell at a corner so he can pee/poo when he’s out playing and need not rush back to the crate? DECIDE ON ONE METHOD - CRATE WITH WIRE FLOORING OR NEWSPAPERS FOR THE NEXT 2-4 WEEKS IF YOU WANT EARLY SUCCESS. In the Crate method, your dog will then use the Crate as the toilet area and outside as his den in 2-4 weeks, in most cases. So, you just clean the crate. Later, you can buy the GRATE + PEE PAN which is actually the same as the lower half of your present crate, without the enclosed vertical walls.
I've let him out of the crate twice on 26 Apr and surprisingly, he climbs back to his crate when he's thirsty after running a few rounds. I see that as a good sign of recognising his own den?
FOCUS ON CRATE TRAINING FOR THE NEXT 2-4 WEEKS, SINCE YOU ARE WORKING AND HAVE NO TIME. IF YOU START PAPER-TRAINING, YOU WILL NEED TO FOCUS ON PAPER TRAINING. The puppy gets confused as to what you want.
Sorry for the long post and thank you for the time to read my email, I would be very much delighted to receive your reply J
Regards,
E-MAIL REPLY FROM DR SING DATED APR 28, 2010
Thank you for email. It is best that you email 2-4 pictures of Cookie's crate + pee pan with the positioning of water bottles, bowls and sleeping area as every puppy is housed differently.
The following is my reply to you:
On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 5:36 PM, ...yahoo.com.sg> wrote:
Hi Dr Sing,
I’ve been reading up your toilet training blog and find it very useful when toilet training my puppy. However, I still have a few queries. I’m a first timer raising up a puppy and hence has been quite stress up. I’ve accompanied my puppy for the first 3 days (almost keeping him within my sight) and observed the following:
My puppy is a mix breed of Chihuahua and Pomeranian, 3 months named XXX. He was with us since 24 Apr 10.
The pet shop owner came with a crate with wire flooring and a pee pan below. Initially I try to carry XXX to the bathroom after nap/food with newspapers laid on the floor but was unsuccessful. Cookie usually poos twice a day, 1 in the early morning and another one in weird timing. I realized that he only pees in the middle of the crate; I supposed it’s due to the urine smell. He pooed everywhere though.
XXX IS USED TO THIS WIRE FLOOR SYSTEM. HE WAS IN THE PET SHOP WITH SUCH A SYSTEM. AS TO POOPING EVERYWHERE, ARE YOU SURE? Where is his sleeping area? Is the crate too small?
Qn 1: Do you think XXX will poo in the middle like where he used to pee if I spray those anti-pee/anti-poo spray (given by my friend) on those area that I don’t want him to do pee/poo? The spray has a strong smell and I'm contemplating to use it.
YOU CAN TRY. THE BEST IS TO ENSURE THAT HIS SLEEPING AND EATING AREAS ARE FURTHEST AWAY FROM THE POOPING AREA AND THE MIDDLE OF THE CRATE.
Qn 2: It seems like he’s trained to pee/poo in the crate. Is that a good idea? It’s ideal for us since we are working. However, if we bring XXX out eg. to a friend’s place, will he pee/poo everywhere since there’s no crate?
YOU MAY NEED TO BRING YOUR CRATE ALONG. XXX WILL PEE AND POOP ANYWHERE IF LET ALONE FOR THE FIRST 2-4 WEEKS as he is not fully house broken.
Qn3: XXX seems to be stepping hard on his own poo when all of us are asleep. He’s also seems to be shifting them around. I can see portions of it at different areas of the crate. We also caught him eating his own poo once. How do we prevent such action from happening especially when we are all asleep?
EATING STOOLS IS A COMMON COMPLAINT. YOU MAY NEED TO REMOVE STOOLS PROMPTLY. IF NOT PRACTICAL, YOU MAY NEED OTHER METHODS I had mentioned in my blog. These are not guaranteed to succeed.
Qn4: When I let him out to play in the living room, will it be better to leave the crate door open and let him run to the crate to pee/poo? YES. HOWEVER, MONITOR HIM CLOSELY SO THAT HE DOES NOT PEE/POOP OUTSIDE THE CRATE. KEEP ALL DOORS OF BEDROOMS CLOSED.
Or will it be better to lay newspapers on a pee pan (given by my friend) with Cookie’s urine smell at a corner so he can pee/poo when he’s out playing and need not rush back to the crate? DECIDE ON ONE METHOD - CRATE WITH WIRE FLOORING OR NEWSPAPERS FOR THE NEXT 2-4 WEEKS IF YOU WANT EARLY SUCCESS. In the Crate method, your dog will then use the Crate as the toilet area and outside as his den in 2-4 weeks, in most cases. So, you just clean the crate. Later, you can buy the GRATE + PEE PAN which is actually the same as the lower half of your present crate, without the enclosed vertical walls.
I've let him out of the crate twice on 26 Apr and surprisingly, he climbs back to his crate when he's thirsty after running a few rounds. I see that as a good sign of recognising his own den?
FOCUS ON CRATE TRAINING FOR THE NEXT 2-4 WEEKS, SINCE YOU ARE WORKING AND HAVE NO TIME. IF YOU START PAPER-TRAINING, YOU WILL NEED TO FOCUS ON PAPER TRAINING. The puppy gets confused as to what you want.
Sorry for the long post and thank you for the time to read my email, I would be very much delighted to receive your reply J
Regards,
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